22 October - In search of the Arabian Bustard

Today the main goal was to search for the very rare and 'most wanted' Arabian Bustard at a certain area of the Tihama plain. Yousuf had hired a local weeks ago to find out where the bustards were supposed to be. Unfortunately, this local was very unfair and cancelled the mission early in morning during our breakfast. We anayway went to the place where Yousuf had seen an Arabian Bustard a few weeks ago. With help from locals from several small villages we searched through the area for several hours, but with no luck. Yousuf's effort in this very mission was incredible! However, we had a nice day in the heat of the Tihama plain and lots of kind locals around us!

Exhausted and hungry we had a late lunch. After the tasty lunch of lamb, rise, vegetables, mixed meat and bread there were not many hours left for birding. We headed towards Al Hodeidah and visited two sites before dawn, which produced nice sightings.

Sightings worthy of mention: Dark Chanting Goshawk (3), Gabar Goshawk (2), Spotted Thick-knee (1), Namaqua Dove (25), African Palm Swift (150), Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (a flock of 200!), Abyssian Roller (10), Black-crowned Sparrow-lark (30), Black Scrub Robin (5), Isabelline Wheatear (50), Isabelline Shrike (15) and Arabian Golden Sparrow (80).

Tomorrow we will spend all day along the Red Sea coast and wetland areas.

Time for bed! Cheers

Typical houses at the Tihama plain. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

A lovely Dark Chanting Goshawk. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Male Arabian Golden Sparrow. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

One Blue-cheeked Bee-eater out of a flock of 200! Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

An exhausted and hungry party. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

21 October - Heading to the Red Sea

Today we started birding before breakfast in the woodland in Al Mahweet that was so good yesterday (where we then had Arabian Woodpecker and Yemen Warbler). Now the sun hadn´t reached the area and we didn´t see many birds except Red-eyed Doves and Brown Woodland Warblers, which were singing everywhere. When we left though a Yemen Warbler started singing.

Before we left Al Mahweet the Yemeni Television had arranged an interview with the group where we among other questions answered about our view of Yemen, it´s nature, people and how secure we felt travelling around in the country. They were especially interested in how Heidi experienced the Yemen as a woman. Yousuf acted as an interpreter from and to Arabic.

We spent the whole day thereafter driving through Wadi Sari about 60 km on gravel roads, and made several stops for birding. Among other birds we saw about 30 Griffon Vultures having a party on a dead donkey, one White-browed Coucal, Grey Hornbill, Arabian Babblers, Upcher´s Warbler and a Southern Grey Shrike of the race buryi.

Later on Tihama on our way to Al Hodeidah we stopped at Bajil´s rubbish dump where we in a terrible smell searched for Abdim´s Storks without success. We found a lot of White Storks, several Steppe Eagles, two Tawny Eagles, one Greater spotted Eagle and one Egyptian Vulture. On our way we also had some Palm Swifts and Abyssinian Rollers.

Got to the hotel and made an early night after a good fish-dinner.
Tomorrow we´ll try for Arabian Bustard.

Good Night from us all.

The Yemen Party. From left: Yousuf, Kjell-Åke, Niklas, Göran, Heidi, Ulf and Alf. Photo: Abdulhamid Abdulkhalliq.

Kjell-Åke is interviewed by the Yemeni Television and Yousuf acts interpreter. Photo: Niklas Holmstrom.

Griffon Vulture Party. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

A curious but hiding White-browed Coucal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

20 October - Al Mahweet

Today we had a very joyful day with easy birding at Al Mahweet and nearby locations. We started at Al Rayadi to enjoy a colony of Griffon Vultures. We had amazing close-up of the vultures. We had several target species on our list, but we failed on Golden-winged Grosbeak. However, the day was very productive concerning birds and the landscape in the area is just amazing, dramatic and beautiful. In the evening we were invited along with Yousuf to a great celebration by the Governrate of Al Mahweet. This celibaration was by the occasion of Yemeni National days of September, October and November .We had a seat on the second row, just behind the governar and his party. The Yemeni Television was there and we were interviewed by two different newspapers. For an hour we listened to traditional and national Yemeni music, which was performed live on stage. Just lovely and a momento for life!

Sightings from today, worthy of mention: Dusky Turtle Dove (20), Red-eyed Dove (3), Bruce's Green Pigeon (1), African Grey Hornbill (3), Arabian Woodpecker (3), Little Rock Thrush (4), Blue Rock Thrush (1), Yemen Thrush (1), Brown Woodland Warbler (10), Arabian Warbler (1), Yemen Warbler (2).

That's all for today folks. Cheers.

Brown Woodland Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Yemen Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Arabian Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

African Grey Hornbill. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Miscellaneous photos by Niklas

Sana'a. View from the entrance of our hotel Arabia Felix.Al Saleh Mosque, which was finished a year ago. We had the opportunity to visit the very huge mosque along a guide just for us.
Heidi had to be dressed up for visit inside. Here in company with two Yemeni police officers. Guess who is Heidi.Part of the incredible huge and beatiful mosque!
The lovely village Kawkaban, which is located at about 3000 metres altitude.Happy birders that just had twitched Arabian and Philby's Partridge. Göran let a nice Yemeni have a look in the scope, while Ulf photographing eagles and Yousuf and Kjell-Åke having a chat.
We waiting for the lunch to be served at a traditional restaurant in Shibam. From left: Ulf, Kjell-Åke, Yousuf (director of Arabian Eco-tours), Heidi, Göran, Åke and Abdulhamid (driver).
Göran (back), Kjell-Åke and Alf waiting for the Arabian Warbler to show up (which it later did!).Happy and curious children at Sarat Mahal. They rarely see foreigners as the village is located far off road.

18 October - A soft start on our bird trip

Most of the day we spent at the wadi Hamman Caref near Sanaa. Nothing rare or special, but nice sightings of regular and beautiful birds such as Hamerkop, Upcher's Warbler, Shining and Palestine Sunbirds.

Hamerkop at Hamman Caref. Photo: Ulf Stahle.Friendly Yemeni people wish us good luck! Photo: Ulf Stahle.

19 October - A day with endemics

Today we did visit Kawkaban, which is a famous birding site with several endemic birds. Right now Ulf and I updating the site from a small Internet cafe, after a lovely dinner and late in the evening. No time for stories this evening. We have to sleep soon. To cut a long day story short. The special sightings as follows: Arabian Partridge (1), Philby's Partridge (3), Hamerkop (1), Bonelli's Eagle (2), Dusky Turtle Dove (30), Arabian Woodpecker (3), Blandford's Lark (40), Brown Woodland Warbler (1), Yemen Trush (1), Red-breasted Wheatear (40), South Arabian Wheatear (40), Little Rock Trush (3), Arabian Waxbill (2), Arabian Accentor (1), Arabian Serin (60), Yemen Serin (40), Yemen Linnet (15) and Striolated Bunting (1). That's all from us today. Tomorrow we will do Al Mahweet and surroundings. Cheers from the Yemen Party and Yousuf.

Arabian Woodpecker at Sarhat Mahal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.Little Rock Thrush at Sarhat Mahal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Hadramaut Agama at Kawkaban. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Take off to Yemen

Just a short message. We have now checked in at Arlanda Airport. Relaxing with a cup of coffee.


Cheers!