Yemen & Socotra 2009

Trip report Yemen & Socotra 2009

2010-10-17T23:16:00.004+02:00

At last, the trip report to Yemen & Socotra last year is now finished! The report is comprehensive and contains species lists, birding sites, day-by-day diary and lot of photos, in all 57 pages! Feel free to view or download the report here (PDF 5,2 MB). Have a joyful reading!

Photos by Ulf Ståhle

2009-12-26T12:18:00.005+01:00

A sample of bird photos from mainland Yemen by Ulf Ståhle is available here>>
Three photos by Ulf have been added below.

A male Arabian Golden Sparrow at Al Kadan.
Arabian Accentor at Jabal Sabir.
Arabian Woodpecker at Al Mahwit.

Photos by Niklas Holmström

2009-11-23T20:49:00.011+01:00

A sample of photos from mainland Yemen and the island of Socotra by Niklas Holmström is available here>>

Photos by Alf Petersson

2009-11-11T22:19:00.017+01:00

Alf Petersson have within the last few days launched a lot of bird photos from our trip on his excellent website Birds and Nature. Below you'll find a nice sample from his website.

Socotra Bunting.

Socotra Sunbird.

Yemen Accentor.

Arabian Woodpecker.

Jouanin's Petrel.

Masked Booby.

Abdim's Stork.

Hammerkop.

Spotted Thick-knee.

Crab Plover.

All photos above by Alf Petersson, Birds and Nature

Reflections and thoughts by Heidi Malmgren

2009-11-06T22:39:00.017+01:00

My name is Heidi and I'm travelling with my husband Göran and the other guys on this "expedition" to mainland Yemen and Socotra. I’d like to share a little about how I have experienced things around us, beside the birds.

To be a lonely woman amongst seven men, travelling around in the country of the ancient Queen of Sheba is truly a wonderful and interesting experience. One would imagine that they would treat me like a queen, but, I m sorry to say, they don’t. They treat me like "one of the boys", I even have to listen to their dirty jokes! But I get some privileges, for instance me and Göran got the honeymoon-suite in Al Masirah. Anyway, we are a happy gang and we all enjoy the adventures we have had so far.

Our guide, Yousuf, is a very competent, pleasant and wise man. Everything has gone so smoothly, we just lean back and Yousuf arranges it so that we all get what we want.

Our two wonderful guides Ahmed Saeid Suliman & Yousuf Mohageb Photo: Heidi Malmgren

As you can imagine, having to do with male birdwatchers, there is no time planned for one of my other interests, namely shopping! But Yousuf arranged it so that we could get a little shopping in Taizz and he has promised to take us to the old suq in Sana’a on our last day in Yemen. I really look forward to it!

Yousuf has thought us a lot about Yemen, its traditions and culture (and birds of course). For example, almost all houses have windows with stained glass mosaic in beautiful patterns. This is called Kameria, which is the diminutive form of Kamr that means The Moon. The ordinary windows in the Yemeni houses are placed near the floor because Yemenis often sit on the floor and to get in some extra light in the houses they used to have round windows higher up with Alabaster instead of glass. These windows looked like little moons, that’s why they are called "little moons", Kameria. When the Dutch occupied Yemen in the 18th century they brought the stained glass with them and the Yeminis started to create their beautiful patterns like they still do, nowadays with glass imported from Germany.

Some of the beautiful Kamerias in our hotelroom in Hadibo, Socotra
Photo: Heidi Malmgren

The landscape of Yemen is very beautiful with breathtaking sceneries as you have seen on the pictures of the blog, and much more vegetation than I had imagined. There are green plants everywhere, except for the few desert parts where we have been.

One thing I was a little concerned about before the trip was the question of "The Ladies Room". It is so much easier for a man to find a place to "powder his nose". But one can always find a bush or a shed to hide behind. And when you can’t hide, like on the rock Sabuniah in the middle of the ocean, you just ask the gentlemen to turn around.... So it has never been a problem, just remembers to bring along some tissues.

This trip is not only a birding-trip, it is also a health-trip, we live so very healthy even though we eat a lot. We eat healthy food, for example a lot of yoghurt, fruits, vegetables, fish and hummus. And of course we drink a lot, at least 2 litres water (Maa) a day. We also walk much every day, how much depending on the ground terrain. (When we watch seabirds there is not so much walking, we just stand and look in our telescopes. Of course the photographers, Alf and Ulf, run around like Mountain-goats to get the best possible shot. They move around at least twice as much as us others!). So I think that we all have lost a little weight in this trip.

Did I mention that there are a lot of high mountains in Yemen? Well, there are. Very high. And with very deep canyons. And I am afraid of heights. (Or at least I was before this trip). So how can a person in her right mind go to a country that has so many, so high mountains (jabal)? When Göran asked me if I wanted to come along I had two choices:

1) stay at home

2) go for a trip that is a once in a lifetime experience.

So I decided to come along and take it as it comes, "go with the flow". The first days were an ordeal for me, when I thought that " it can’t get worse" the next road (or track) was even steeper and more rough. But one gets used to it and Yousuf and Abdulhamid, our second driver, are excelent drivers that make you feel safe and secure. And that goes of course also for Ahmed Saeid Suliman, our brilliant co-guide in Socotra. (Ahmed works as Head of the Conservation and Research Unit at the EPA, Environment Protection Authority, on Socotra and is a botanist and ornithologist.)

Narrow road at Al Mahweet. Photo: Niklas Holmström

We have even managed to pass a meeting car on a road not wider than two wheel tracks and with a high mountain wall on one side a a deep canyon on the other side. But that time I closed my eyes......:)

Something very common for Yemen and Socotra is goats. They can move around in any biotop and can climb up of the steepest mountain. You see them everywhere, and they seem to be able to eat anything.

The restaurant at our hotel in Hadibo on Socotra (Socotra meens the suq of sap, the sap market), where we are right now, is also a day care centre......for baby goats! On the evenings Mother Goat comes calling and the small goats, who have spent the day sleeping under the tables (outside of course), run to see Mummy. They even call "ma ma, ma ma"! They are so cute and mostly for keeping up appearances the staff will try to chase them away, but they are feeding them when they think no one is looking. And so is Ulf!

Ulf is feeding the goat Greta! Photo: Heidi Malmgren

The boat trip to the rocky island and then to the secluded and isolated beach of Shoúab was a magic experience. To take a swim at the long sandy beach in that crystal clear, soft, warm water under the hot sun. To take a rest in the fishermen’s shady hut. And at night in the velvet soft arabian night, to sit and drink sweet tea (chai) on a blanket in the sand under the stars and the moon and listen to the fishermen singing soft arabian songs around the campfire. Sigh...

Looking out for Socotra Cormorants, of course in a pink boat.
Photo: Ahmed Saeid Suliman

The people of Yemen are so very nice and friendly. When we have met the locals in distant mountain villages they have offered us of what they have, sometimes bread, sometimes fruits or crops. When we come to a place the locals come and greet us and wish us welcome and offer us of whet they have.

This friendly man climbed up in a high Tamarind-tree to get us some Tamarind-fruits, very tasty! Photo: Göran Cederwall

In Socotra people are very honest. That means that you can leave your car unlocked with cameras and computers in it, and walk away for a couple of hours. When you return everything will be as you left it.

Anyway, this approach to your fellow human is a part of Islam and the people here are really living it, not only talking about it. This is my experience of the Muslims, and it is a picture far from the one you might get when you read the news in the west.

All in all, this has been (and still is) a wonderful trip in a wonderful country and I hope to be back soon!

Heidi. Photo: Göran Cederwall

So, bye bye for this time.

Heidi Malmgren

2 November - Last night in Sana’a

2009-11-04T16:22:00.015+01:00

After a late breakfast we drove to the airport and there we said goodbye to Ahmed. A bit sad as we became friends during our stay. He was fantastic as a guide, sharing his knowledge about Socotras history and nature, a remarkable bird finder and quick to laugh too. We left Socotra about eleven and made stopovers in Mukalla and Aden then finally arrived to Sana’a at 14:30. Yousuf had booked room for us at Arabia Felix Hotel in the old town of Sana’a, where we enjoyed a late, but delicious lunch. Niklas began to update the travel blog with text and photos from the last six days on Socotra.

We left the hotel about 18:00 for a walk, exploring the old town and shopping in the famous suq (= market). Yousuf guided us through the old town and its narrow roads and alleies. At 18:20 there was a power failure, so it were sparse with light sources. However, the walk got even more magical then in the gleam of the full moon!

The suq were just wonderful. It was like travelling back in time. We spent our last riyals and dollars on art, silver rings, kamaria, scarf and books and myrrh. What a pity that we didn’t had more time to explore the whole suq! We went to a nice restaurant, to which Yousuf had invited David Stanton for dinner at 20:00. David is a well-known birder and has lived in Yemen for 18 years. He is the general secretary of the Yemen Ornithological Society and the coordinator of the Yemeni Leopard Recovery Program. The dinner were delicious and happy with lot of laughter. Yousuf had gifts for each of us: cassettes with good music from Yemen!

We left the hotel at 23:00 and at the airport it was time to say farewell to Yousuf. He has arranged with everything in a very professional way throughout the tour as well as being a good and knowledgeable friend. The trip has been beyond all expectations and will be a memory for life. Thanks Yousuf! We miss you already!

More stories, links and photos will be added within the next few days.

We hope you have enjoyed our travel diary.

Sana'a at dusk.
Entrance to the Suq and the pulse of the city.

Well-attended shop with dates for all tastes.

A very nice art gallery where we bought a lot.

A lovely antiquarian.

The last dinner in Yemen with David Stanton as guest. From left: Heidi, Göran, David, Kjell-Åke, Alf, Ulf and Yousuf. Photos: Niklas

1 November – Wilson and Lichtenstein

2009-11-02T22:36:00.012+01:00

After the breakfast we spent some time in Hadibo and bought ceramic handicraft painted in red colour from the Dragon Blood Tree. Then we did a stop at the Serhin lagoons a few kilometres east of Hadibo. There we saw Pacific Golden Plover and Green Sandpiper, which was new to our Socotra trip list. Otherwise the species and numbers were as yesterday visit.

On our way eastwards to Di Hamri, a protected coral reef area, we recorded Socotra Cisticola, Socotra Sunbird, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Desert and Isabelline Wheatear. We arrived to Di Hamri at 10:00 and it was already very hot. A few headed to a tip for seawatching while others enjoyed snorkelling or just relaxing in the shade. The seawatch were joyful with species such as Flesh-footed (3) and Persian Shearwater (21), Jouanin’s Petrel (20), Masked and Brown Booby, Bridled Tern (1), Brown Noddy (106) and finally two long awaited Wilson’s Storm-petrels. The snorkelling were just wonderful with all those colourful fishes and corals! In additional we saw three schools of Bottlenose dolphins and one of them mixed up with Spinner Dolphins.

In late afternoon we headed to a lagoon close to Hadibo to see Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouses coming in to drink water. We arrived just in time at sunset. We placed our selves close to where we knew the birds to come. The dark fell quickly and the glare of the full moon made the scenario complete. Soon we heard the calls from the arriving sandgrouses. We waited and waited and then we put the strong torch on. Wow, there were about hundred of sandgrouses on the opposite wall to the lagoon. What an end of the day!

We had a last dinner on Socotra as we leave the island tomorrow. Melancholy indeed.

The tip at Di Hamri, which is good for seawatching. Photo: Niklas

Lunch time in cooling shade at the Diving Centre. Fish of course. From left: Heidi, Göran, Ahmed and Yousuf. Photo:Niklas

Seawatching at Di Hamri. Searching for Wilson's Storm-petrels. Photo: Niklas

View at Qaria Lagoon in late afternoon. Photo: Niklas

Moon glare at Suq while waiting for the sandgrouses to come. Photo: Niklas

Lichtenstein's Sandgrouses coming in to drink water. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

31 October – Birding the lagoons

2009-11-02T20:30:00.014+01:00

Ulf and Niklas scanned the sea from the hotel roof an hour before breakfast. They recorded Flesh-footed (1) and Persian Shearwater, Jouanin’s Petrel (5), Sooty Gulls and terns. In Hadibo we found a Black Kite, which is vagrant to the island.

A stop at the Serhin lagoon produced lots of shorebirds and a White-winged Black Tern, but nothing exceptional. We drove eastwards to the Qaria Lagoon, which is a protected area and an important breeding site for Kentish Plover. Here we saw a Marsh Harrier, another vagrant. The numbers of shorebirds were not as high as in Serhin, but we recorded Lesser and Greater Sand Plover and five species of herons.

We spent an hour at Socotra Folk Museum. Ahmed told us about Socotras history and showed us a vast numbers of photos from the sixties. Much seem to has changed since then.

At noon we reached Hala with its spring water and beautiful landscape. The area was mountainous with sand dunes while the little spring water and its streams were green and lushy, like a micro oasis. Here we found two juvenile Indian Pond Herons, Common Snipe, Yellow Wagtail and a vagrant Tree Pipit. Imagine these birds remarkable long journey and finally ending up in a little spring water pond in Socotra!

On our way back to Hadibo we made a stop for seawatching and there we soon spotted a huge whale not far from shore. The blows were big, but only a few metres high, and the dorsal fin were triangular, which pointed to Humpback Whale. It travelled slowly westwards along the coastline and suddenly we discovered a calf alongside the mother. They disappeared now and then. And without notice the mother whale breached. What a sight! Impossible to describe by words! Later on the calf breached too! Everyone was soooo happy.

After these marvellous sightings we went back to our hotel for another fish dinner.

Ulf seawatching from the hotel roof. Photo: Niklas
A vagrant Black Kite in Hadibo. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Alf and a huge Desert Rose. Photo: Niklas

A sand dune shaped by the monsun in the eastern part. Photo: Niklas

Birders at the spring water at Hala and dunes in background. Photo: Niklas

Juvenile Indian Pond Heron at Hala. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Part of the Socotra Folk Museum 40 km east of Hadibo. Photo: Niklas
Some of us bought Dragon Blood Tree crystals. Photo: Niklas

Birders at the big Qaria Lagoon. Photo: Niklas

29 to 30 October – A pelagic bonanza!

2009-11-02T14:38:00.023+01:00

We got up at 04:30 and had a quick breakfast. Our 4WD’s were packed with food, camping equipments and life jackets. Yes, we were going to undertake a two-day pelagic trip! We drove to Qalancia, which is located 65 kilometres west of Hadibo. We arrived and two boats were ready to be boarded by eight happy birders. The expectations were high. Yousuf, Ahmed and the skippers arranged with all equipments and soon we were offshore enjoying a calm sea. The sea was full of small crabs, which attracted numerous seabirds. Soon we found ourselves in the centre of a huge flock of Socotra Cormorants while three Red-billed Tropicbirds circled over us high up in the sky. We headed towards southwest and the rocky islet Sabuniah, which is located 35 kilometres from Qalancia. Brown Noddy, Persian Shearwater and Sooty Gulls were numerous. Singles of Jouanin’s Petrel, Brown and Masked Booby were seen now and then. It was a hectic time for the photographers onboard!
Ulf, Skipper, Ahmed and Alf. Photo: Niklas

One of thousands of Persian Shearwaters. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

An elegant Jouanin's Petrel. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

After two joyful hours we approached Sabuniah, which is the home of 2000 pairs of Masked Booby and 3000 pairs of Socotra Cormorant! Brown and Masked Boobies checked us up and suddenly a swarm of Masked took off from the islet. What a sight! We landed on the islet for an hour. At least two pairs of Red-billed Tropicbirds were present in the air and were seen displaying several times. Some of us climbed to the top to get close-ups on Masked Booby, adults and their chicks. The whole scenario was dreamlike!

The rocky islet Sabuniah. Photo: Niklas

Masked Booby surrounded by two Brown Boobies. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.
Searching for a place to land on Subuniah. Photo: Niklas.
Red-billed Tropicbird. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.
Masked Booby. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.
Juvenile Socotra Cormorants. Photo: Niklas

We left Sabuniah and headed slowly towards a remote beach on western Socotra. Jouanin’s Petrels and Persian Shearwaters crossed our way now and then. We landed on the beach, which is located close to the breeding site of the Jouanin’s Petrel. It was very hot and all of us took a swim. We found shade in a fishermen’s (so called) hut. Imagine that we felt the shade cooling, when it in fact was 31 degree in the shade. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of fishes caught by one of the skippers.

The breeding site for Jouanin's Petrel. Photo: Niklas

Having fun further up from the beach. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

One hour of seawatching from the beach in the afternoon was very productive. It was impossible to count all seabirds, but during 10 minutes we counted every bird that passed by: 105 Persian Shearwaters and 316 Brown Noddies! All of them close to the shore!

We put the tents up on the beach and awaited the dusk and then climbed upwards to the cave where the Jouanin’s Petrels breed. Unfortunately, the hillside was to steep and the path too narrow for most of us, but Yousuf, Ahmed and Ulf continued up to the entrance of the cave. They heard a few calls and saw several birds entering the cave. The rest of us sat on the beach in the moonlight in company with the fishermen. It was magical!

Everyone slept well and dreamed happy dreams. Photo: Niklas

We woke up just in time to enjoy the sunrise at this lovely and remote beach. Some of us took a refreshing swim while a seabird addict started to seawatch. What a sight when about 3000 Socotra Cormorants arrived to the bay and gathered in a dense foraging flock. Persian Shearwaters passed close to the shore in a seemingly endless stream, along with noddies, boobies, gulls and terns. A big surprise was an adult Indian Pond Heron, which was the first on our trip.

View on our way to Qalancia. Photo: Niklas

After a nice breakfast on the beach we entered the boats and took off for Qalancia. We travelled slowly along the coastline. We spotted four Red-billed Tropicbirds circling overhead while heavy numbers of Persian Shearwater and Brown Noddy where seen around the boat! Add to this good numbers of Brown and Masked Booby, Sooty Gull, Lesser Crested and Swift Tern as well as a single Bridled Tern. We also saw Bottlenose Dolphins and a small group of Indo Pacific Humpback Dolphins. What a magnificent boat tour, which lasted for more than two hours.

Part of a huge flock of Brown Noddies. Photo: Niklas

Brown Noddy. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Heidi and Kjell-Åke enjoy the sight of a Persian Shearwater. Photo: Niklas

Back in Qalancia we saw two vagrant Collared Pratincoles. On the road back to Hadibo we stopped for two lovely chameleons, which slowly crossed the road in their characteristic walk. We made a quick stop at our hotel and then continued to Suq, which is a palm tree area that hold several pairs of Socotra Scops Owl. We heard one in broad daylight and Ahmed found one perched in a palm tree just two metres away from us! We made a short stop for seawatching and then returned to Suq in the dusk. We heard about ten owls and twenty Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouses flew overhead.

These two unforgettable days will be a memory for life!

A golden beach at Qalancia. Photo: Niklas

One of the nice chameleons crossing the road. Photo: Niklas

Socotra Scops Owl. So small and beautiful. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

28 October – TV celebrities

2009-11-02T14:16:00.014+01:00

Seawatching before breakfast produced hundreds of Persian Shearwaters and a single Flesh-footed Shearwater foraging at moderate distance. We enjoyed a long breakfast and several cups of coffee or tea. The plan of today was to visit a valley between Hadibo and the peak of Hagher not far away. Just when we were about to leave a jeep stopped outside the hotel and three well-dressed men jumped out. They were from Nile Television and wanted to do an interview with us for a reportage about Socotra, which will be broadcast on Friday and then we has been on television three times during the trip! They interviewed Göran and Ahmed about Socotras’s vulnerable nature and conservation projects and of course what six birders from Sweden were doing on the island. Göran was perfect for the mission!

The valley Al-Ayhawt were green and lushy. Ahmed showed us different Frankincense trees and myrrh. Deep in the valley we made a longer stop were the tourist police Salim Abdellah and his family live. Some of us bought Frankincense from him while two vagrant Wood Warblers were found. Bruce’s Green Pigeons were seen here and there as well as Socotro Golden-winged Grosbeaks. A few (Socotra) Buzzards were seen and we recorded its call. At noon we had a nice picnic lunch. Then we drove to Qadub for seawatching. We found a nice place at the shore a few metres above sea level. There were Persian Sherawaters in a never ending stream and Sooty Gulls passing by. Soon we discovered a couple of Brown Noddy. What a lovely bird! We scanned the sea for 1 ½ hours and noted Persian Shearwater (c. 1000), Flesh-footed Shearwater (1), Jouanin’s Petrel (2), Brown Noddy (71!), Masked Booby (8 adults), Sooty Gull (c. 300) and Red-necked Phalarope (c. 500).

Cheers
Göran is interviewed by Nile Television. Photo: Niklas

The rocky road to Al-Ayhawt valley. Photo. Niklas

The Al-Ayhawt valley. Photo: Niklas

A couple of the beautiful Bruce's Green Pigeon. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

A singing Socotra Golden-winged Grosbeak. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

A huge crab from outer space at Qadub. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Seawatching at Qadub. Photo: Niklas

27 October – A day of endemics

2009-11-02T13:30:00.018+01:00

Ulf and Niklas woke up early and did seawatch from the hotel terrace before breakfast. The sea was calm and several hundreds of Persian Shearwaters passed by or foraging offshore.

After a nice breakfast outside the hotel we drove slowly westwards along the coast. The whole coastline was flat with golden beaches and small fishing boats just offshore. Then we drove inland towards the mountains with stops now and then. As we reached higher altitudes the numbers of Dragon Blood Trees increased. We stopped at a place with several trees of different ages. The youngest was over hundred years old and the oldest over several centries. Ahmed told us very interesting things about the Dragon Blood Tree, for example, it’s in fact a herb (like the Banana Tree), its medicinal effects and that a few snail species live only on this tree.

We continued through a dramatic and breathtaking landscape. At 10:30 we reached an area named Diksam, which had been impossible without 4WD and good drivers. The first endemic of the day was a single Socotra Starling followed by Socotra Sparrows. A Socotra Sunbird appeared and the photographers disappeared chasing the bird. A (Socotra) Buzzard took off from a cliff and a minute later Ahmed spotted two Socotra Buntings. Everyone (even Göran), rushed to the buntings and soon all of us had seen these beautiful birds. We enjoyed the birds for nearly half an hour. Ahmed took us to another place not far away and soon discovered a Socotra Warbler and within a minute we saw two more as well as several Socotra Buntings and sunbirds. Everyone was happy, but there was more to come. Several Socotra Golden-winged Grosbeaks appeared, a Peregrine chasing a Roller, Forbes-Watson’s Swifts over our heads and Abyssinian (White-breasted) White-eyes here and there. Then all of us were in need of food and a siesta. Ahmed and Yousuf served a nice picnic buffet, which also attracted a gang of Egyptian Vultures. In late afternoon we drove back to Hadibo and made a stop for seawatching, which produced about thousand Persian Shearwaters.

Endemics and numbers: Socotra Starling (10), Socotra Sunbird (12), Socotra Warbler (15), Socotra Sparrow (numerous), Socotra Golden-winged Grosbeak (3) and Socotra Bunting (25).

That’s all for today.

The Yemen party in shade of a Dragon Blood Tree. Photo: Ahmed Saeed.

Socotra Bunting. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Male Socotra Sparrow. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Socotra Sunbird: Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Socotra Warbler. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Socotra Golden-winged Grosbeak. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

'Socotra' Buzzard. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.
Forbes-Watson's Swift. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Socotra Starling. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Female Somali Starling. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

From left: Alf, curious Egyptian Vultures and Göran. Photo: Niklas

Hello there! Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

26 October - Socotra at last!

2009-10-26T19:22:00.014+01:00

We got up early and had a great breakfast buffet. We tasted everything as no one knows the standard in Socotra. Yousuf met up outside the hotel along with Abdulhadim, of which we said our goodbye too as he will not join us to Socotra. A bit sad as he had been a happy company and a good driver. At Aden airport we checked in 08:20 and the rather small airplane left at 09:00. We made a stop over at Al Mukalla to fuel for the flight to Socotra, on which we arrived at about 11:50. At last! A long wet dream come true for several of us!

To our very surprise we found an Internetcafe just fifty meters from the hotel! But there is no coverage at all for our mobile phones.

The friend of Yousuf, Ahmed Saeed Suleiman, met us at the airport and drove us to the hotel in Hadibo, just a few kilometers away. The hotel is very nice and perfect for birdwatchers as the balconies face the sea. After a delicious seafood lunch Ahmed (The Socotra Governance and Biodiversity Project) took us on a ride to nearby sites in the afternoon. We saw six Cream-coulered Coursers, several Desert Wheatears, Black-crowned Sparrowlark (30), Long-billed Pipits and of course the endemic Socotra Cisticola (6). Then we headed to a nearby tip at the coast for seawatching the last hour before sunset. We saw Persian Shearwaters (300), Jouanin's Petrel (4), Flesh-footed Shearwater (4), Swift Terns and Sooty Gulls.

Other sightings were Socotra Sparrow, lots of Somali Starlings and Egyptian Vultures. In the dusk we heard a few Lichtenstein's Sandgrouses.

Indeed a good start on our weeklong stay on Socotra!
Socotra, here we come! Photo: Niklas Holmstrom.
A beautiful adult Antlion at Socotra airport. Photo: Niklas Holmstrom.

Our room at the hotel and Ulf finds the checklist for Socotra. Photo: Niklas
A nice Cream-coulored Courser. Photo: Ulf Stahle.
Birders searching for the endemic cisticola. Ahmed to the right. Photo: Niklas
Finally, we twitched the Socotra Cisticola! Photo: Ulf Stahle.
A beautiful male Desert Wheatear! Photo: Ulf Stahle.

25 October - Taizz to Aden

2009-10-25T22:29:00.010+01:00

Started with an early visit to Jabel Sabir (2860 m), a mountain close to Taizz, where it was so cold that Kjell-Åke even wore gloves and a cap! We stod there waiting and suddenly a bird started to sing. It was the Arabian Accentor, and soon more and more accentors began to sing. We had wonderful observations and close-ups of at least ten individuals. There were also several Yemen Trushes showing off. Then back to the hotel for late breakfast and after that we left the busy town of Taizz and headed southeast for Aden. On our way we made a stop at Wadi Dhabab to search for Arabian and Zebra Waxbill. We found not only them, also a beautiful Masked Shrike and a Dark Chanting Goshawk. After that we decided that we would skip lunch and head directly for the Aden Marshes. And that turned out to be a wise decision, the Aden Marshes is an Eldorado for birdwatchers! From the fantastic birdwatching-tower we had wonderful views of Sacred Ibises, Black-headed Herons, Pacific Golden Plovers, Collared Pratincoles, hundreds of Flamingos and many other species. Add to this hundreds of hundreds of waders, gulls and terns of many species. We stayed at the Marshes until dusk and went to our very luxury hotel for dinner and a good nights sleep.

By the way we also saw four Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse on our way to Aden.

Tomorrow we will leave for Socotra!

No need for words. Arabian Accentor. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

One of several Yemen Thrushes (at the same spot as the accentors). Photo: Ulf Ståhle.Zebra Waxbill at Wadi Dhabab. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.Steppe Eagle. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

24 October - Al Hudeidah to Taizz

2009-10-25T21:54:00.015+01:00

After a nice breakfast with (at last) strong coffee we left Al Hudeidah at seven o’clock and drove southwards along the coast. We did several stops before we reached Khowkha. A lovely place with a small hotel facing the sea. It was low tide and shorebirds just tripping in front of the hotel. Adult Crab Plovers and begging juveniles 30 metres away from us. Greater and Lesser Sandplover everywhere. A single Pacific Golden Plover. White-eyed and Sooty Gulls were passing by as well as Saunder’s, Swift and Lesser Crested Terns. A delicious lunch of tasty and spicy fish and rice was served. And then we had coffee and tea in the garden. We spent five hours at this site and then continued to Al Mukha, the famous port from where the excellent Yemeni coffee once upon a time was exported to Europe. Now, the city was more or less in ruins. Sadly. As the wind was hard with sand we headed straight to Taizz instead. On our way we saw lots of raptors such as Egyptian Vulture (25), Booted Eagle (2), Steppe Eagle (11), Buzzard (20) and a single Kestrel. Four Chesnut-bellied Sandgrouses not to be forgotten.

At 16:45, an hour before sunset, we reached Taizz and its huge garbage dump. Immediately we spotted about ten Abdim’s Storks on a roof! An unhealthy smoke from the dump filled the air. Imagine the peoples faces when drove through the smoke into the dump and disappeared. On the other side we found a hill and fresh air. Perfect for our activities. The air was filled with Black Kites and mixed up with White Storks and Steppe Eagles. A Hobby passing by as well as a flock of 100 Glossy Ibis. When we left the dump in the dusk we found about 50 Abdim’s Storks roosting in two big trees.

Tomorrow we’ll get up very early.

Cheers from an exhausted, but happy birders in Yemen.

Göran, Heidi and Kjell-Åke scanning the bay at Khowkha. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

Ulf photographing a not too distant... Photo: Niklas Holmström.
Yes, of course, a lovely Crab Plover! Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

One of at least 16 Terek Sandpipers at Khowkha. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Saunder's Tern at Khowkha. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

A very tasty lunch and good spirits. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

Birding and phtotgraphing at the dump in Taizz. Niklas Holmström.
One of about 50 Abdim's Storks at the dump in Taizz. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

23 October - Red Sea coast

2009-10-23T21:31:00.016+02:00

We started early morning at Al Hodeidah fish market to see gulls and terns, but of course, also experience the market itself. Caotic, but interesting to see all these fishes, rays and sharks. After that we visited an area with several sewageponds which held numerous waders, chlidonias and about 1700 Lesser Flamingos and perhaps 60 Greater ones. A few years ago it was the opposite numbers, perhaps it can be due to the extreme dry season in Northeastern Africa. We continued along the coast to Al Hudeidah wetlands and then to Saliff. On the latter site we scanned the strait between mainland and the island Kamaran (second largest after Socotra in Yemen waters). We had lunch along a bay with low tide enjoying Crab Plovers and other waders. In late evening we tried a site for Nubian Nightjar, but found an European Nightjar instead. We ended the day with a dinner, the last one in Al Hudeidah. Tomorrow we are going to Taizz via Al Mukha (Mocha).

Sightings: Ferriginous Duck (2), Dark Chanting Goshawk (1), Crab Plover (41), Lesser and Greater Plover (numerous), Terek Sandpiper (20), White-eyed Gull (30), Sooty Gull (60), terns such as Gull-billed, Caspian, Lesser Crested, Swift, Saunder's (1), Whiskered and White-winged Black Tern, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (12), Palm and Little Swift, Black-crowned Sparrow-lark (30), Hoopoe Lark (1).

This is the last evening with wireless Internet connection, so we will see when we will be able to update the blog next time.

Cheers

"How much for this shark?" Al Hudeidah fish market. Photo: Niklas Holmström.
A beautiful adult White-eyed Gull. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.A 'most wanted' Crab Plover seen at Al Urj. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

A relaxing view during our lunch at Al Urj. Photo: Niklas Holmström.Seawatching at Saliff didn't produce any seabirds. Photo: Niklas Holmström.
A happy Striated Heron at Saliff. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Last dinner in Al Hudeidah. Yousuf had his kids along too. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

22 October - In search of the Arabian Bustard

2009-10-22T21:32:00.015+02:00

Today the main goal was to search for the very rare and 'most wanted' Arabian Bustard at a certain area of the Tihama plain. Yousuf had hired a local weeks ago to find out where the bustards were supposed to be. Unfortunately, this local was very unfair and cancelled the mission early in morning during our breakfast. We anayway went to the place where Yousuf had seen an Arabian Bustard a few weeks ago. With help from locals from several small villages we searched through the area for several hours, but with no luck. Yousuf's effort in this very mission was incredible! However, we had a nice day in the heat of the Tihama plain and lots of kind locals around us!

Exhausted and hungry we had a late lunch. After the tasty lunch of lamb, rise, vegetables, mixed meat and bread there were not many hours left for birding. We headed towards Al Hodeidah and visited two sites before dawn, which produced nice sightings.

Sightings worthy of mention: Dark Chanting Goshawk (3), Gabar Goshawk (2), Spotted Thick-knee (1), Namaqua Dove (25), African Palm Swift (150), Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (a flock of 200!), Abyssian Roller (10), Black-crowned Sparrow-lark (30), Black Scrub Robin (5), Isabelline Wheatear (50), Isabelline Shrike (15) and Arabian Golden Sparrow (80).

Tomorrow we will spend all day along the Red Sea coast and wetland areas.

Time for bed! Cheers

Typical houses at the Tihama plain. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

A lovely Dark Chanting Goshawk. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

Male Arabian Golden Sparrow. Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

One Blue-cheeked Bee-eater out of a flock of 200! Photo: Ulf Ståhle.

An exhausted and hungry party. Photo: Niklas Holmström.

21 October - Heading to the Red Sea

2009-10-21T22:40:00.013+02:00

Today we started birding before breakfast in the woodland in Al Mahweet that was so good yesterday (where we then had Arabian Woodpecker and Yemen Warbler). Now the sun hadn´t reached the area and we didn´t see many birds except Red-eyed Doves and Brown Woodland Warblers, which were singing everywhere. When we left though a Yemen Warbler started singing.

Before we left Al Mahweet the Yemeni Television had arranged an interview with the group where we among other questions answered about our view of Yemen, it´s nature, people and how secure we felt travelling around in the country. They were especially interested in how Heidi experienced the Yemen as a woman. Yousuf acted as an interpreter from and to Arabic.

We spent the whole day thereafter driving through Wadi Sari about 60 km on gravel roads, and made several stops for birding. Among other birds we saw about 30 Griffon Vultures having a party on a dead donkey, one White-browed Coucal, Grey Hornbill, Arabian Babblers, Upcher´s Warbler and a Southern Grey Shrike of the race buryi.

Later on Tihama on our way to Al Hodeidah we stopped at Bajil´s rubbish dump where we in a terrible smell searched for Abdim´s Storks without success. We found a lot of White Storks, several Steppe Eagles, two Tawny Eagles, one Greater spotted Eagle and one Egyptian Vulture. On our way we also had some Palm Swifts and Abyssinian Rollers.

Got to the hotel and made an early night after a good fish-dinner.
Tomorrow we´ll try for Arabian Bustard.

Good Night from us all.

The Yemen Party. From left: Yousuf, Kjell-Åke, Niklas, Göran, Heidi, Ulf and Alf. Photo: Abdulhamid Abdulkhalliq.

Kjell-Åke is interviewed by the Yemeni Television and Yousuf acts interpreter. Photo: Niklas Holmstrom.

Griffon Vulture Party. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

A curious but hiding White-browed Coucal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

20 October - Al Mahweet

2009-10-21T21:57:00.016+02:00

Today we had a very joyful day with easy birding at Al Mahweet and nearby locations. We started at Al Rayadi to enjoy a colony of Griffon Vultures. We had amazing close-up of the vultures. We had several target species on our list, but we failed on Golden-winged Grosbeak. However, the day was very productive concerning birds and the landscape in the area is just amazing, dramatic and beautiful. In the evening we were invited along with Yousuf to a great celebration by the Governrate of Al Mahweet. This celibaration was by the occasion of Yemeni National days of September, October and November .We had a seat on the second row, just behind the governar and his party. The Yemeni Television was there and we were interviewed by two different newspapers. For an hour we listened to traditional and national Yemeni music, which was performed live on stage. Just lovely and a momento for life!

Sightings from today, worthy of mention: Dusky Turtle Dove (20), Red-eyed Dove (3), Bruce's Green Pigeon (1), African Grey Hornbill (3), Arabian Woodpecker (3), Little Rock Thrush (4), Blue Rock Thrush (1), Yemen Thrush (1), Brown Woodland Warbler (10), Arabian Warbler (1), Yemen Warbler (2).

That's all for today folks. Cheers.

Brown Woodland Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Yemen Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Arabian Warbler. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

African Grey Hornbill. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Miscellaneous photos by Niklas

2009-10-21T21:03:00.027+02:00

Sana'a. View from the entrance of our hotel Arabia Felix.Al Saleh Mosque, which was finished a year ago. We had the opportunity to visit the very huge mosque along a guide just for us.
Heidi had to be dressed up for visit inside. Here in company with two Yemeni police officers. Guess who is Heidi.Part of the incredible huge and beatiful mosque!
The lovely village Kawkaban, which is located at about 3000 metres altitude.Happy birders that just had twitched Arabian and Philby's Partridge. Göran let a nice Yemeni have a look in the scope, while Ulf photographing eagles and Yousuf and Kjell-Åke having a chat.
We waiting for the lunch to be served at a traditional restaurant in Shibam. From left: Ulf, Kjell-Åke, Yousuf (director of Arabian Eco-tours), Heidi, Göran, Åke and Abdulhamid (driver).
Göran (back), Kjell-Åke and Alf waiting for the Arabian Warbler to show up (which it later did!).Happy and curious children at Sarat Mahal. They rarely see foreigners as the village is located far off road.

18 October - A soft start on our bird trip

2009-10-19T21:07:00.013+02:00

Most of the day we spent at the wadi Hamman Caref near Sanaa. Nothing rare or special, but nice sightings of regular and beautiful birds such as Hamerkop, Upcher's Warbler, Shining and Palestine Sunbirds.

Hamerkop at Hamman Caref. Photo: Ulf Stahle.Friendly Yemeni people wish us good luck! Photo: Ulf Stahle.

19 October - A day with endemics

2009-10-19T20:35:00.013+02:00

Today we did visit Kawkaban, which is a famous birding site with several endemic birds. Right now Ulf and I updating the site from a small Internet cafe, after a lovely dinner and late in the evening. No time for stories this evening. We have to sleep soon. To cut a long day story short. The special sightings as follows: Arabian Partridge (1), Philby's Partridge (3), Hamerkop (1), Bonelli's Eagle (2), Dusky Turtle Dove (30), Arabian Woodpecker (3), Blandford's Lark (40), Brown Woodland Warbler (1), Yemen Trush (1), Red-breasted Wheatear (40), South Arabian Wheatear (40), Little Rock Trush (3), Arabian Waxbill (2), Arabian Accentor (1), Arabian Serin (60), Yemen Serin (40), Yemen Linnet (15) and Striolated Bunting (1). That's all from us today. Tomorrow we will do Al Mahweet and surroundings. Cheers from the Yemen Party and Yousuf.

Arabian Woodpecker at Sarhat Mahal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.Little Rock Thrush at Sarhat Mahal. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Hadramaut Agama at Kawkaban. Photo: Ulf Stahle.

Take off to Yemen

2009-10-17T11:42:00.004+02:00

Just a short message. We have now checked in at Arlanda Airport. Relaxing with a cup of coffee.

Cheers!

This blog will start on 16 October 2009

2009-10-03T22:08:00.016+02:00

Between 18 October and 2 November we are six Swedish birdwatchers that will visit Yemen and Socotra for birding and seawatching as well as culture events. We will be birding for eight full days in Yemen and seven full days on Socotra. We will also undertake a full day pelagic trip to the island J. Sabuniah east of Socotra, hoping to see and photograph seabirds and cetaceans. A great happening will be a nocturnal trip to the only known breeding site of Jouanin's Petrel along with a guide from the Socotra Governance and Biodiversity Project.
This is an independent tour, which has been planned together with Yousuf Mohageb, the director of Arabian Eco-tours in Sana'a.
We will do our best trying to update sightings, photos and nice happenings on daily basis, but it is of course depending on the Internet access at each hotel on our way.